🔗 Share this article Each Cook Must Study Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Dining Destinations. Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London. An Unexpected Accolade This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally astonished. “I am utterly shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list. The Appeal of Simplicity This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner. A Star Creation: Tantuni However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture. It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside. It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together. Other Than the Basic Tantuni There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”. For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour. Rising Above the Titans Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations. While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price. The Ethos of Hospitality It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner. “I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”. The Story of Hard Work In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son. Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication. “My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says. A Recognition for the People The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.